It Happened Here

Ben’s Chili Bowl has served very famous people, such as Duke Ellington, Ella Fitzgerald, and Martin Luther King Jr.

The drum circle at Meridian Hill Park assembles every Sunday.

A tranquil and peaceful setting in the middle of chaotic DC, this fountain is one of many in Meridian Hill Park.

Although the 9:30 Club is nothing special to look at from the outside, this club is a very popular venue for a wide range of artists, from independent and eclectic artists to popular mainstream bands.

Spotlight on Independent Bookstores: Used Bookstores, a Disappearing Treasure

By Amy A. Welch, WIW Member

While Washington, DC, is a landmark for politics and serious business, there are still pockets of town that salute the artistic, the unconventional, and the avant-garde.  One of these pockets is the U Street Corridor, which is on the green line near Adams Morgan and Columbia Heights.  Don’t let the word “transitional neighborhood” scare you.  Go for a daytime visit and appreciate the raw creativity of the area, or get a group of friends together for an evening concert. 

The U Street Corridor was the center of African-American life from around 1900 through the 1950s.  Whenever I want an honest history of Washington, DC, I ask my mom.  She grew up on Columbia Rd.  When asked her, “What do you remember about U Street?” she replied, “Oh, we didn’t go there” with a shudder.  Translation:  It was a very dangerous area.  According to the historic landmark signs, the center of the 1960s civil rights riots was within view of the metro station.  My mom remembers being driven down the street in the midst of the riots and watching an angry demonstrator fly across the front of the car.  The fact that I can now walk around and enjoy what the area has to offer amazes her. 

Fortunately, today everyone can enjoy Ben’s Chili Bowl at 1213 U Street, NW.  Opened in 1958, it provides an old-fashioned presence that just might be the heart and soul of the neighborhood.  The restaurant brags that famous musicians such as Duke Ellington and Ella Fitzgerald ate there, as well as important luminaries like Martin Luther King, Jr.  The staff is very welcoming, and I like going there for the low-key and relaxed vibe.  It is a unique place because although it is a hang out spot for men and women of classroom encyclopedias, working class people also embrace it.  I highly recommend having a meal there and soak in the history and significance of this humble place.
Nearby at 15th and W Streets NW is Meridian Hill Park, the site of a well-known drum circle.  The drum circle is a Washington institution and began about 40 years ago to commemorate the death of Malcom X.  The drum circle gathers on Sundays between 3 p.m. and 9 p.m. at the top of the hill.  I have been there twice and the diverse crowd is unlike anything I have ever seen.  The first time I saw it, it made a lasting impression on me; it was so eccentric and free form. 

The park is worth visiting, with or without the drum circle, for its breathtaking views and interesting history.  Construction on the 12-acre park began in 1914, and the park’s design seems to reflect an era without television.  There are many places to sit for a leisurely reading or writing session.  Not only are there lots of trees, but the man-made waterfall, fountains, and pond (complete with ducks) are relaxing if you like the sound of running water.  Some of the surrounding homes also have lovely gardens.
The U Street Corridor is a haven for rising musicians.  The metro station features wall paintings that show people playing instruments and dancing, echoing the musical focus of the neighborhood.  Local bands start out in the small, dark clubs sprinkled throughout this area.  Bands that have attained commercial success still play the 9:30 Club for its “no seat” style and intimate size.  The sound is great, and the truth is that the edgy environment is a key ingredient to some musical genres.  For example, I have seen punk bands there and felt that the same performance at the Verizon Center would not have packed the same punch.  Other clubs in the area include the Black Cat and the Velvet Lounge.  One challenge of weeknight shows is that the metro may close before the show ends, so you might have to hail a cab on U Street instead.

For visual artists, the U Street Corridor has amazing furniture and interior design stores.  I walked into a place called Muleh at 1831 14th Street, NW.  Bold colors and flamboyant designs are the norm there.  Visit the stores in this neighborhood for expressive and original styles. 
Despite the high-end stores that are cropping up along 14th Street, some corners are still not completely safe.  In fact, the local real estate market is a bit controversial among DC residents, as critics say that the neighborhood is still not safe enough to command the price tags that sellers advertise.  I spoke with a cab driver who said that he would not drive the side streets at night. 

Nevertheless, the U Street Corridor seems to walk to the beat of its own drummer.  While it has heroically survived oppressive days and risen above social injustice with resilience, courage and artistic genius, it still seems to be weighed down by decades-old baggage.  The neighborhood has a complex, yet vibrant and freedom loving identity.  These qualities make it an ideal place for bringing buried ideas and long forgotten inspirations to the surface and onto paper.